“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” – Mark Twain

It is officially fall back home and I can’t help but imagine a pair of snazzy brown leggings paired with a ridiculous pair of boots, and a light sweater dress complemented just perfectly by one of many of my beanies or head scarves. Brisk mornings, changing leaves, streets covered in leaf litter (conveniently hiding the litter of my brothers and sisters that neglect to respect Our Mother) an oven nurturing an aromatic spiced pie and good o’l bike rides. I’m thinking about my mom and knowing she’s been splurging on new Halloween decorations; I’m imagining the kids too scared to approach her front door on Halloween evening; and feeling nostalgia for the holiday cheer of her annual pumpkin carving party—always enough liquor to keep the adults smiling while finishing off the couple dozen pumpkins the kids started and abandoned.

And then there’s the hot tub -- a place where friends can gather from October-February. Trips home from Santa Cruz may or may not have been inspired by this big tub of hot water.

But…about Bangkok.

As much as I have thought about home, I’ve yet to feel homesick. I know that everything and everyone I love will be there when I return =)

So three weeks is a lot of updating, especially when those three weeks encompass a trip down to Koh Chang (an island SE of Bangkok) and a weekend in Cambodia! However, as I mentioned in my last blog, updating under time constraints is probably a good strategy. I’m in the midst of preparing for midterms and writing papers, so in having less time, I’ll test your patience less ferociously.

On Thursday September 8, Jake arrived for a visit from Santa Cruz. I had my English instruction interview on Thursday morning and an afternoon class, so we didn’t do much visiting until Thursday night. Friday morning we woke and caught a flight over to Koh Chang, which is a wonderfully beautiful island not too far from Bangkok. This island is dense in forests and steep mountains….and beaches! Incredible. I thought Santa Cruz was fortunate in its composite of redwood forests and coastal sublimity, but on Koh Chang it’s seriously one unit. I’m starting to think the 7-mile drive from beach front living to hiking in the redwoods was a bit arduous!

Despite the rain (another wet vacation on an island) we had a stunning time. Luckily rainy season is wrapping up now, and hopefully I’ll be able to get some real beach time in while everyone in California packs on the layers (well….layers in that California kind of way). We spent a lot of time chatting, napping, reading, eating, and drinking so the rain wasn’t much of a damper.

AND…dun dun dun….

We met the coolest baboon ever. We named him Bamboo (admittedly because I was struggling to remember the word baboon and kept slipping up with Bamboo) and were able to feed him fruit from our fingertips right outside our guesthouse. Apparently a troop of them reigns in the trees that hung over our rooftops and this brave soldier has discovered the ease of survival when in cahoots with the kind human; and, despite the generosity of our lodge owners, Bamboo still found it worthwhile to steal from the Buddhist shrines. Jake snapped a fantastic shot of Bamboo in action; in the photos (available on Facebook) the little dude is in midflight, fruit in hand. A nimble feller who presumably has some experience with this sort of illicit behavior. No wonder you hear stories about thieves and monkeys, they’re really good.

Our guesthouse was nothing less than perfect. With cold running water, a squat toilet, a slanting floor and an unobstructed view of the gulf, one couldn’t ask for more.

Sadly Jake’s visit was cut short because of a full schedule and he caught a flight back to California at around 5am Wednesday morning. We both woke around 3, him to prepare for his flight, and me to prepare for my first Thai language quiz. How’d it go you might wonder? Let’s just say FARANGs (fer-ay-ng, meaning foreigners) don’t seem to hear tones. It’s baffling; the professor goes over and over these tones, laughs because the distinctions are “so obvious” and yet we all blurt out a medley of answers: high tone, low tone, rising….and then she announces it was mid tone. Ayyyy, accepting defeat is tough. However, on Wednesday I get another chance. Our Thai midterm starts promptly at 9am, and were expected to give a short presentation in Thai, be able to perceive tones, write the Thai characters, and conjugate sentences correctly. Whew.

Despite all of the Thai language’s efforts to sour my morning, I remained optimistic. Students from California universities have the best advisor ever, and he planned for us a super swanky dinner in the commercial district of Bangkok. Many floors up, and many bottles of wine later, we all left totally satisfied. The dinner taunted our tongues with artichokes, cheese, chocolate, bread, and olives. I’m going to rethink luxuries when I return home.

So the quiz and dinner were on Wednesday, meaning Thursday would be dedicated to class and laundry because after loitering around Bangkok for forty-eight hours, it was time to get out of town. Cambodia and I had a date.

Traveling once again with Margit, Shannon and Camille, the three of us caught a 5:55 train out of Bangkok to the Thai border town of Aranyaprathet. Luckily we had done our research and managed to avoid the slew of scams that have gained notoriety on these seemingly lawless lands. Passing through Thailand to Cambodia was actually quite easy and we spent nothing more than we should have on our Cambodian Visas. What an accomplishment!  

Once in Poi Pet (the Cambodian side of the border) we managed and to snag a taxi  (paying little regard to the fact that the driver had the hood up and was working on it at the time) for less than the bus charged per head. Thailand has trained us well. We grabbed our first local brews, and by we I mean Margit and I—maybe the alcoholics? I think not, we just know how to appreciate the finest parts of life. Plus, we had a two hour ride ahead of us and weren’t totally sure our car was going to make it the two hour stretch through Cambodia into Siem Riep. What better way to prepare for a potential let down? It all worked out though, we only had to pull over once while I driver stuffed his head in the hood of his Camry, the sunset was great, watching kids playing in mud “ponds” (maybe a foot of water) had me grinning, and the Indian sounding Cambodian music our driver grooved to was in fact groovy. We checked into a cool guesthouse where us four ladies split a room for $6 U.S. (Cambodia uses U.S. dollars, the Cambodia Riel ($4200 Riel to $1 U.S), and in some cases the Thai Baht). Their currency isn’t terribly strong and we were advised to use U.S. dollars while traveling...plus, it took me awhile to master the math behind $30 baht to $1 U.S, let alone a messy conversion like $4200!

Our first full day in Cambodia was leisurely. We slept in, rented bikes (it felt so good to roll around town on two wheels), munched on some “happy herb pizza,” (the dough is in fact prepared with marijuana and is considered traditional Khmer food) got tugged on by street kids asking for candy, money, or perfecting their entrepreneurial skills in mostly book and jewelry retail. Many of them were quite young, I wouldn’t suspect over 10, and were out into the wee hours goofing with the other streets kids and trying to earn some money or snag a snack from the overflow of tourists that visit their beautiful city.

The next day, sadly already our final day in Cambodia, we visited Angkor Wat. One of the Seven Wonders of the World, Angkor Wat boasts temples that balk at you in their enormity. I’ve yet to watch it, but apparently Tomb Raider was filmed here! A spread of numerous temples, each with own mighty flights of stairs, makes this a worldwide tourist destination. We lucked out too because we got just the slightest of showers, and caught some amazing sunrises and sunsets. The weekend prior some folks had visited Cambodia and spent their few days wading through knee high water due to poor infrastructure. Another guy I chatted with mentioned a man had been bit by an alligator while treading through the flooded streets! Luckily, our roads were dry, and the burnt red soils that contrasted with the bright green vegetation are what post cards were made for.

Overall, I loved Cambodia and did not want to return to Thailand. I cannot wait for my visit to Cambodia in December. I’ll be backpacking through Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia with a lot more time on my hands.

I’m so intrigued by the history of Cambodia and have been slightly obsessed with learning about this beautiful country’s past. Only recently have they had political stability, and the aftermath of the Khmer Rouge genocide from 1975-1979 dictates the demographics. With most of the population under 30, many of the older Cambodians we saw were victims of landmines. During the Cambodian/Vietnam war the Khmer Rouge (under the financial and political support of the United States) planted landmines throughout Cambodia and did not map where these immoral agents of destruction were planted. Consequently, travelers in Cambodia are warned to stay on the beaten path; in fact, blogs and brochures caution hikers to call for help immediately and remain still if on unfamiliar terrain. Also consequential for Cambodia’s prosperity is the discerning killings of the Khmer Rouge: because the regime hoped to limit Western influence and devise an egalitarian community, all educated members of society were targeted in their genocide. Children at Angkor Wat were selling books that illustrated this history, and I recently finished First They Killed My Father, a novel based on the reflections of an 8 yr old Cambodian girl whose family was murdered and disenfranchised.

The country is currently a recipient of large sums of development aid and this alone is reason to be concerned. Although I understand the need of these nations and their peoples, development aid is always offered with strict stipulations. The World Bank and International Monetary Fund are not selfless donors, and these loans are always chalk-full of carrots for the donors. In Latin America the consequences of neoliberal reform are well researched and these nations remain indebted to the U.S. and in shackles. With little room to support social services, the privatization of all sectors breeds gruesome inequity. Open Veins of Latin America by Eduardo Galeano chronicles this process with great depth and passion if you’re interested.

So I am back in Bangkok and took a weekend off traveling. It is midterms week so were all busier than usual. I have been studying and writing over the last few days and have come to the conclusion that midterms and Thailand do not pair nicely. Buttttttt, they are over on Wednesday and I receive Brandon Rudd & Ivania and Josh Rocha tomorrow night. I’m so excited for their arrival. Brandon will be sharing his birthday with me and I know that we will have some blog-worthy travel experiences while they’re here.

Finally, once again the value of my life and the many opportunities I have been awarded has been put into perspective. Earlier this month a woman of deep strength and deep love for her community passed away at the hands of someone she cared for. May my neighbor’s spirit live on, may her family and friends remain strong, and may the justice she fought for prevail. Celestial Dove Cassman, you are in the hearts and minds of many.

And, so not to close on premature goodbyes, the vegetarian festival officially begins tomorrow and street vendors have begun hanging their yellow flags of meatless goodness around their stands. Vegetarians indulge in real Thailand.

Namaste

CAMBODIA pictures

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.290581194288896.88407.100000110547271&l=36c9ab121b&type=1

KOH CHANG pictures

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.290569227623426.88386.100000110547271&l=39c34d2633&type=1

To marvel at life's marvels

The lulls of home have emerged; I suppose this indicates having fully adapted to life in Thailand – paying rent, doing homework, cleaning house, and writing myself little lists of to-do’s, most guaranteed to be lost and forgotten. I am well, and I am happy but thoughts of obligations have set in. My calendar has been decorated with due dates, and with visitors coming and a Visa set to expire (Which means I need to schedule a trip out of Thailand in the next 3.5 weeks.) I’m feeling rather uncommitted. Two goals for the day: better plan the next month and make time for blogging. I’ve written three sentences now, and am already working on the fourth, about 1% progress.

It has been exactly two weeks since we have spoken, and why, I don’t even miss the feeling of pouring thoughts and memories onto a Word document in hopes of not forgetting the intricacies, not boring my readers, not foregoing moments of laughter and first times and more generally, not announcing to the world I’m still learning my native tongue. Writing without addressing a particular person or subject, as one might do for academia, poses interesting insights into one’s own limitations. I am voluntarily keeping a blog, but perhaps because this is the first time I’ve done such a thing, I feel rather exposed by it. I think I’d like it better if someone else did the documenting…but then again, I wouldn’t want to read someone else’s perception of my life unless I of course paid them off or they were stunning wordsmiths. Note to readers: if this blog suddenly becomes prodigious, don’t ask questions.

As for the update, assuming that’s what this blog is about, I have much to divulge: an emergency room, culinary transcendence (a revealing testament of self-indulgence), more temple time (called Wats (sounds like Wot) and fun to say “What Wat”), taxi tales (perhaps a publishable “Short and Simple Annals of Carriage in Bangkok” – certainly it would be amusing), a not quite quixotic island adventure, however fun, and random other accounts of eating, learning, and traveling in Bangkok.

I’m mighty convinced that upon reading “emergency room” in my last paragraph many of you struggled to completely read even such a short passage. An age of drama infused lives – blood and glory, we cry. I shall answer your calls for excitement with a disappointing level of ruckus. Sometime soon after my last entry a few of the gals and I ventured out to the Silom District in Bangkok. Silom Soi (street) 2 & 4 serve as the hub of gay nightlife in Bangkok and an evening full of dancing and a short (and impressive) lady-boy show painted smiles on everyone’s face. Until…suspense builder…the sound of breaking glass. A new friend of ours, met just two night prior, was having perhaps too much fun? He fell through a sheet of glass and after about twenty minutes of technical investigation, we discovered it was in fact our friend that had caused a piece of wood to replace what was once a piece of glass -- and was now in the emergency room. Lightly injured, a few stitches, and nearly two hours later we all laughed in exhaustion and caught a taxi home. Luckily we had about five hours before have to land our butts in lecture.

Having jumped right to the emergency room, I failed to mention the night prior: Margit and mine’s first real success eating vegetarian food in Bangkok. Traveling by foot, we planned to dine at a vegetarian restaurant in a familiar neighborhood about 25 minutes away. While strolling over to our intended destination we were lured by an owner of a guesthouse, dubbed JENNY’S (not terribly authentic sounding) and nearly scoffed at his attempt to draw Western diners to his eatery with a name like Jenny’s. We continued onward only to discover that our dining plan required some revisions – the vendor was closing shop and Jenny’s was just around the corner. We turned back towards Jenny’s, and expecting little, pulled out the chairs at a small outside table. Within seconds Jenny (the chosen name of this Thai man) served us a bowl of local fruits and a friendly smile. Wearing a t-shirt that read “if you make peaceful protest impossible, you make violent revolution inevitable” I began to warm up to the idea of dinner at Jenny’s. Unfounded judgments can be prudently humbling.  The meal was delicious, the price commendable, the spice nearly enough, and the generosity, unmatched. Jenny purchased us a small dessert from a street vendor and poured a stout gin and tonic J

The rest of the week included a visit to Wat Pho, the largest and oldest temple in Bangkok and home to the well-known Reclining Buddha statue, another unnerving afternoon in a taxi to the wrong destination (losing just 3 hours and 400 baht), an incredible street vendor (more to come on this) and planning a trip down to nearby Koh Samet.

As previously mentioned, although not quite a quixotic island adventure, Koh Samet offered a nearby escape from urban life. A popular destination among Thais, and just a 3-4 hour bus ride, Samet is an easy escape. And the bus ride – let me just say it was no 3^rd class train ride! We went in one of those awful tourist buses that one hates to see in their own town, but boy are they cushy: curtains on the windows, reclining chairs, free water, an icy A/C – one couldn’t help but sing The Jefferson’s Moving On Up. The island, adored for being one of the driest archipelagos in Thailand rained nearly the Whole time. Of course the rain is warm and the alcohol warming, so we managed with ease, but indulged in a trip a bit different than the one we had envisioned. Rather than drinking in sunlight, we drank in copious amounts of booze; rather than reading, we found ourselves escaping to the ocean waters for a swim; rather than hiking the island, we found ourselves frequently dining. Trip highlights: fire jump roping and fire limbo, dancing late into the night while the skies poured rain onto our happy souls, and no bed bugs in this guesthouse – trip detraction: the mosquitoes were implacable.

 I’ve only caught you guys up on one of two weeks – every time I sit down to write in my blog this seems to happen. Perhaps I should plan to update when faced with strict time constraints? And for all the effort, not one of you should be skimming!

We returned from the island late Monday night and after grabbing a quick bowl of soup from a street vendor across the street, we set our minds on sleep. Having to act out carrots, cabbages and all things green is getting to be quite the show. Lots of pointing, laughing, and optimism are required for these feats. I’m glad I’ve met other vegetarians and I’m glad a Thai vendor has yet to throw something at me. Luckily, because of a scheduled class field trip this weekend, my Tuesday morning class was canceled. Sleeping in after the island was much needed.

A few more confessions to go and then dinner time and a trip to a folk music pub, apparently popular among the politically active Thai.

On Thursday, before heading off to my Ethnic Studies class, Margit and I met for lunch at a street vendors stand a 15-minute stroll from our apartments. Having just been introduced to Pok (the woman who runs the stand) a week prior we marveled at her technique and sniffled as we scooped Tom Yum with noodles into our greed filled mouths. And because I was impressed by Margit’s own blog about our lunch, I chose to thieve rather than be creative myself. As a wise woman once described:  “Pok makes a mean tôm yam, and she’s not shy to make it phèt (spicy) when she’s asked. This has been a constant problem in Thailand — farang girl asks for phèt, yes, chây-ka, and you’re served up a big bowl of some plain-ass watery noodles by your Thai server, who’s all excited, certain: “Yes yes you say no spicy good yes okay?” When this happened last week, we emptied the entire bowl of chili flakes into our flavorless soup bowls, eliciting gasps and pointing fingers and “phèt farang”– priceless. As Margit said, getting spicy with this shade of skin, this particular shape of eyes, and this color of hair is almost impossible. Not only does Pok earn kudos for the tears in our eyes, but also for the free tastes of Thailand she’s provided both visits: the first time, an incredible Thai omelet and the second time, a fresh baby coconut and a Thai pomegranate. Her English is better than most, and she’s quick to ask the name of a new guest: Chan Chuu Jessieeee (My name is Jessie, with a long draw on the E sound).

After a nearly life-changing lunch date, and a lecture on ethnicity, I strategically planned my route home: having yet again forgot my umbrella (I only bring it on the days that don’t rain), my motherly instincts guided me as I protected my beloved Macbook from the rain and sprinted from shelter to shelter as I made the 20 minute trek home. Maybe I learned this time?

On Thursday night a group of SIXTEEN of us – not sure how this always seems to happen in Bangkok, jumped into four taxis to visit a restaurant dubbed Cabbages and Condoms. The website explains how “… [the] restaurant was conceptualized in part to promote better understanding and acceptance of family planning and to generate income to support various development activities of the Population and Community Development Association (PDA).” The entire place is decked out in condoms, from the centerpieces in the tables, to the art on the walls, family planning and greater acceptance of contraceptives is the statement. A neat place to eat and support.

August second was our One Month Anniversary with Bangkok and although I don’t generally celebrate One Months, this one called for fine dining, a hot date, a big bill, and some cute attire. Although initially planned to involve more people, everyone seemed to find better things to do so Margit and I headed on over to Little India in a true romantics kind of way. Dressed in a blue Thammasat t-shirt,  horts and hiking sandals, she knew we were getting serious. In a deep alleyway, in an unmarked restaurant, we found a little “hole in the wall” that featured about 6 premade Indian dishes, a huge bowl of rice, and some roti. We ordered enough food to feed four and a Lassi for under $6 U.S. Were getting pretty serious.

The night capped off with a little dessert I picked up off Kao San road – a leaf full of mixed fried insects and a bag of small crickets. Vegetarian failure? I just had to do it.

Finally, yesterday was Saturday and for one of my classes we visited a convention on Thai Traditional Medicine. Although I mostly ate at this event (not surprising, I know) seeing almost everything written in Thai, a large display of medicinal plants, and traditional massages was nothing short of interesting. One of the assignments for the field trip was to receive a massage? Tough work. UC professors should keep these things in mind when dulling out the workload.

I hope everyone at home is filled with love and happiness. To those of you in Fresno, don’t let the heat sour your souls and remind yourselves of the humidity in other parts of the world *cough *cough. I’ve been thinking a lot about Santa Cruz and the abundance of local organic foods and vegetarian fare – spending time away from those luxuries surely helps you realize just how much of a luxury they are. Access is word of critical significance: access to health, education, sustainable food, agency and autonomy and political transparency. For all that I intend to change and the activism that fuels my heart, I am grateful to be born an American citizen where although inclusion and access are lacking, I have the ability and the knowledge to recognize these deficiencies and the power to feel as though I am able to make a difference.

On Thursday I have an interview to start teaching English at an exclusive all girls campus in Bangkok that is funded by the royal family and has a mission statement of cultural exchange and increased awareness in the global community. I am also thinking a lot about volunteer options in Thailand and the surrounding areas  -- once my program in Bangkok wraps up, I will spend sometime traveling without time restraint and then hopefully settling down in some random South East Asian city where food and accommodations are traded for one’s services in English, on farm assistance and other clinics designed to help orphans, HIV patients, animals, and women. There are many opportunities to volunteer in Asia and I can’t wait to see this region from that perspective.

To all those without Facebook accounts:

For the rest of Koh Samet Island photos see:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.279324685414547.86006.100000110547271&l=526fc40b21&type=1

For the rest of random up to date Bangkok see:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?

set=a.281840785162937.86393.100000110547271&l=13b4855afa&type=1

With Gratitude,

Jessie Rae